SANDEEP JAJABOR: Roop Kund Trek- 2003

Human skeletons scattered all around in Roopkund

Roop kund Trek-2003

Sandeep Mukherjee

Sudip in Roopkund

In the year 2003, I alongwith a group of my friends trekked to the famous Roop Kund (15000 feet), in Uttarakhand. This report was written in 2003 but being posted in 2012 as I learned to create a blog only now and that too on the insistence and persistence of my daughter-Ishani Mukherjee. The trek is famous for the two most beautiful high altitude grasslands (bugiyal बुगियाल in Garhwali), which one has to pass through, to reach roopkund. One is the Ali bugyal and the second is the Bedini Bugyal. The Roopkund is also famous for one more reason. There are hundreds of human skeletons lying all around in the frozen lake.The skeletons includes those of children, women, horses and ponies. Who were these people and what they were doing in this inhospitable region? It remains an unsolved mystery.

The human skeletons were rediscovered in 1942 by a ranger H K Madhwal, although there are reports about these bones from late 19th century. Earlier it was believed by specialists that the people died from an epidemic, disease or blizzard. The carbon dating from samples collected in the 1960s vaguely indicated that the people were from the 12th century to the 15th century.
In 2004, a team of Indian and European scientists visited the location to gain more information on the skeletons. The team uncovered vital clues including jewellery, skulls, bones and preserved tissue of bodies DNA tests on the bodies revealed that there were several groups of people including a group of short people (probably local porters) and a taller group who were closely related - with DNA mutations characteristic for Kokanastha Brahmins. Though the numbers were not ascertained, remnants belonging to more than 500 people have been found and it is believed that even more than six hundred people perished.(source wikipedia)

Of all the treks that I have undertaken so far, the beauty of the Roopkund trek, for me remains unsurpassed till today. A poet or a writer could have done some justice in describing the beauty of the area and the experience we had. Though I am neither, I have attempted in this report to capture, in words and photos, my experience of the trek. Hope you would like it.
[All the photos, that you now see here, were originally taken on a slide role, which I have now projected on a wall and then shot with my digital camera. Hence, excuse me for the poor quality.]

Members of the Team

a) Shubhada: A veteran trekker. Very considerate and caring person. De-facto leader 40.

b) Ganeshda: A designer genius. Two of the four tents we were carrying were designed and made by him. A Little biggo in his style. Age 40.

c) Amit Samanta: A trekker with immense mental toughness. Age 38.

d) Debu: A trekker with abundant energy and enthusiasm. He can make you laugh in any situation. Age 35
e) Bhaskar: Our medicine man. Very experienced trekker.

f) Himadri Khan: A photographer with limitless passion for nature photography: Age 37

g) Kaju: A typical ‘চেংড়া ছেলে ’ (loafer) of Dankuni. Ready wit is his forte. Age 25

h) Somit Datta Gupta: A brilliant Government officer with a passion for trekking. Age 33

h) Sudip: Avid trekker and an excellent cook. Age 37

i) Sandeep Mukherjee: The author of the report and trekking for almost six years with the above group. Age 37
Lakhpat Singh: The guide Age 46

Porters:Gabru, Alam Singh

The group photo at Lohargung-the author in the middle

8-10-2003 (Day-1): Loharjung (Mandoli) 7000 ft. Destination Didinagram 8800 ft.

We reached Loharjung (लोहार्जंग) at around 8 P.M. last night and stayed at the forest bungalow. The morning began with a hot cup of bed-tea served by Gabru the porter, at 6 AM. We finished all formalities by 7.30 a.m. Our stay at forest-rest house was very comfortable by trekking standards. Samit, Subhada, Debu and I went out to purchase essential items for out trek- eggs, Kerosene, onions, potatoes, rice etc. At 9.30 a.m., we started our trek after taking a group photograph of the entire team.

Since we had no breakfast in the morning, we decided to stop mid-way for our breakfast + lunch at around 11.30 a.m. We stopped near a river where chapattis and subji were prepared and had a hearty meal. This place was some 6 kms to the Didinagram (दिदिनाग्राम) and now onwards the trek was a very steep climb.

On our way we spotted a weasel like creature, near a river, hopping from one boulder to another in search of food. It had a yellowish coat with a long tail. The English name of the animal is “Yellow throated Marten” (I came to know about it only when I happened to visit the Natural History Museum in Delhi with my daughter - Ishani, after coming to Delhi.).

At 3.00 p.m. we finally reached Didinagram, a picturesque little hamlet surrounded by high mountains on all sides. Since it was our first day of the trek, we found the 3 kms upto Didinagram very tough and tiring. We pitched our tent in a small bugyal(बुगियाल ), a little beyond the Didinagram.

Lakhpat Singh showed us the mountains on left of our tent, and informed that tomorrow we would go via the top of that mountain which is called Ali bugyal.

09-10-2003 (Day-II)

Didina Gram-8800 feet destination Bedinibugyal-12500 feet.

Didinagram

Our destination was Bedinibugyal (12,500 ft) via Alibugyal. Total trek was of 10 km. Last night was the first night in the tent. We had a good night sleep although it was quite cold. The trek today was a steep climb up to Bedinibugyal. We started our trek at around 8 a.m. after breakfast and reached Alibugyal around 11 a.m. Alibugyal is a very beautiful meadow at a height of 12000 feet. Trishool (7309 mtrs) and Nandaghunti were now very close. We took few photographs from Alibugyal and then finished the packed lunch of paranthas with Achar. After resting in Alibugyal for 30 minutes we started for our final destination- Bedini Bugyal.

Break at Alibugyal

After another 2 hrs. of simple trek through beautiful meadows we reached Bedinibugyal at 2 p.m. I found Alibugyal more picturesque than Bedini although at Bedini one could see the Chukhamba peaks also, in addition to Trishool and Nandaghunti which you could almost touch now. The bedini kund was without water. May be with water in the kund the complexion would have been totally different.

On reaching Bedinibugyal we found another group of trekkers, all Bongs from Bengal. Shubhada and Sudip immediately recognized them as old acquaintances. They had met a few members of this group in the last year’s trek to Saptakund. In Bedinibugyal there are only two trekkers hut. The other group had already occupied one of the trekkers hut and therefore, we moved our luggage into the second hut (Rs.100 per night). Since it was 2 p.m. and we had enough time, one of us suggested that we should have mangsho bhat মাংশ ভাত (meat and rice) for dinner. No need to tell you that the proposal was unanimously approved. The only problem was to get the meat. The idea was conveyed to the chowkidar who agreed to bring us lamb meat from Didinagram provided if we could wait for 3-4 hours. Everybody agreed and we ordered 3 kgs of meat (@ Rs.90 per kg). It had taken us some 6 hours, to reach bedini from Didinagram but the Chowkidar said that it will not take him more than 3 hours for the to and fro journey. Obviously we did not believe him. However, around 6 p.m. we saw him appear on the horizon at the far end of the bugiyal with a balti (बाल्टी) in his hand in which he had bought the three kg of meat. We greeted him with cheers and then started the communal dinner preparation. By now, it was getting very cold and we decided to cook inside the trekker’s hut. Dinner was ready by 8.30 p.m. It was the tastiest Mangsho Bhat (meat and rice) (মাংশ ভাত ) that I ever had or will ever have in my life. Since we very busy inside the trekker's hut in preparation of the dinner and then eating the mangsho bhaat we did not come out till we had finished our dinner. But when we came out, at around 9 pm, the sight which we witnessed, will remain etched in my memory forever. It was a day or two before the full moon and the snow covered Trishool and Nandaghunti were glistening in the moon light. It was surreal. We kept looking at the peaks and were overwhelmed at the beauty of mother nature. which perhaps can only be appreciated fully if witnessed personally and as no photograph, I feel can ever capture even an iota of it. It was a divine experience. We went to sleep at around 10 p.m. and had a good night sleep despite the fact that all but Ganeshda and I were snoring sonorously. You can well imagine the orchestra which is created if 9 people in a room of 10 X 10 snore in unison.

Ganesha Temple at Kailubinayak Pass
Trishul with the backdrop of Trishul

10-10-2003 (Day –III) Bedinibugyal (12500 feet) Our destination was Buguawasa (15000 ft.) through Kailu Binayak Pass (15000 ft.) a distance of 10 kms. We started at 8 a.m. after offering prayers at the Latu Devta temple. We reached Pathernachauni at around 12 p.m. Lakhpat showed us Latkobari jungles in a very far off mountain. He told us that after six days we would be passing through those jungles. We reached at Kailu Vinayak pass at around 2 p.m. The trek today was very demanding particularly the last 3 km upto Kailu Vinayak Pass. Lack of oxygen at this height is the primary culprit. However, when we reached Kailu Vinayak Pass, all my tiredness vanished in seconds. The two peaks Trishool and Nandaghunti were now only 25-30 k.m. away( my guess). I immediately unloaded my rucksack down and took out the camera. There was not even a speck of cloud between us and Trishool (7309 mts)/Nandaghunti and I took a number of photographs there(Please do not forget it was the pre-digital era and you had to count every snap for the fear of exhausting your reels). There is a Ganesha Temple at Kailu Vinayak Pass were we offered dry fruits as Prasad(see above).

from Left to right-Shubhada, Debu, Sandeep ,Amit and Bhaskar(standing)

All of us sat at Kailubinayak for about 40 minutes enjoying the beauty of surroundings(see photo left). Although I had now climbed upto 15000 feet, I was feeling fit and fine. Perhaps that was also the reason why I liked the place so much. However, the height was taking its toll on few of our members.

We reached Baguavasa at 3 p.m. and again found another group (needless to say all bongs). This group was returning from Roopkund ( comprising of few men in the age of 50+). We ksed them about the trek route for tomorrow and how difficult or risky the route was. The group, which we had met at Bedini, also arrived at Baguawasa little later. Their plan was to go to Roopkund the next day and return to Baguawasa the same day. Whereas, we were to cross Roopkund and go down the other side to a place called SheelaSamudra.

Few of our porters had already reached Baguawasa an hour before us and kept mushroom soup ready. At Baguawasa, we decided not to pitch the tents and opted for a stone house (Trekker's hut) that was built many years ago but was in ramshackle condition now. All the four walls were made of stones, kept on top of each other. Although there was an entrance but the door was missing. Many of stone tiles in the roof were also gone. Despite the condition of the hut, we opted for it, because (i) there were very few suitable sites to pitch the tents and (ii) pitching a tent and then re-packing it next day again is something every body wanted to avoid. Since there were big gaps between the stones tiles, cold draft coming in, from every corner and that had to be stopped as best as possible. The ceiling was covered with few plastic sheets by the porters and similar efforts were also made to seal the door with partial success.

At Baguawasa, we also found lots of wilted Brahma Kamals( ब्रह्म कमल ) still hanging from the stems. Months of August/September are the best time to see Brahma Kamals in full bloom. We only wondered that what a sight it would be, when the lotus are in full bloom. We took few photographs of these very beautiful flowers and then started preparation for the night.

The dinner was khichdi + papad was served by 6 p.m. The moment we finished our dinner, we realized that the sun-set, here too, is going to be a memorable event. Although it was now biting cold, but I bought out my camera and sat down on a rock waiting for that perfect moment. Within seconds, Everything around us turned into a deep orange and it was such a magnificent sight, that you have to see my slides to have a glimpse of the beauty. (see below) We took many photographs of the wonder and by 6.30 p.m. made a dash for our sleeping bags for no sooner was the sun behind the peaks it was unbearably cold outside. We realized for the first time that the night was going to be a torture.

sunset at Baguawasa

To cover the open door, all the sacks were piled up before it and then all the available plastic sheets were thrust into the remaining gaps. Anticipating severe cold at night, I had put on all the woolens that I was carrying (two shirts, two sweaters two monkey caps, two trousers including one woolen and two socks both woolen). We all wanted to get some sleep as tomorrow was the D-Day but the entire night I kept on shivering involuntarily and could not sleep for even a single second. I got a sleeping area just beside one of the walls (in 2003 my pecking order in the group was pretty low.) and the bone chilling drafts kept on hitting me first. At one point of time, I thought, that I would collapse with hypothermia and would not be able to make it further. I do not know how I braved the 10 hours of this ordeal that night and only prayed and prayed for the morning to break. Hence was relieved when I heard Gabru getting up for the morning tea.

11/10/03: Baquawasa (15000 feet) Day –IV (The D Day)

Today our destination was Sheelasamudra (Ocean of Stones) (12500feet) via Roopkund (15900 feet) and Jyunargali Kol (16300 feet.) “Jyunargali” translated means valley of death.

The night at Baguawasa was expected to be uncomfortable. However, it turned out to be nightmarish as I have already narrated. With no sleep the entire night plus the depleted oxygen level often leads to altitute sickness. The early signs were manifesting itself in most of us. After a breakfast of Suji Halwa we started for Roopkund at 8 A.M. One question which we all asked was whether we would be able to see the human skeletons in Roopkund. We were told that most of the skulls have been taken away as souvenir by porter/trekkers.However, even now the number of skeletons are very large and lying all around.

The other group of bongs, bid us good bye and wished us luck. They informed that they will be starting for Roopkund little later after the sun rays hits the camp. We started very slowly, saving our energy, for we knew that today was going to be a very difficult climb. After about 2 hours of climb the trek was becoming quite difficult. Every few steps we were stopping and the progress was agonisingly slow. We passed through awe inspiring valleys and the photographer in me could not stop taking snaps, despite the fact that at this height, to take out the camera from the bag, take a shot and then put it back is always exhausting. One is so tired of the treak that you have just the energy to trek like a zombie and any other activity requires a hurculean effort.

After about 3 hours of trek we could see the top of a mountain but this time no peaks were visible behind it. Lakhpat told us that the top of that mountain is the Roopkund. However, by now the gradient was almost 70°. It was now very very difficult to climb without stopping and resting very frequently. Shubada Kaju, Sudip and Amit were ahead of by 30 mnts. Ganeshda, Bhaskar and I were taking 10-11 steps and were gasping for breath and trying to regain some strength. Although I was unable to walk faster but was feeling very confident and physically fit. I was really thanking myself for being regular with my jogging.

Somit and Debu were far behind and I could see them coming from down below. After walking another 45 minutes I could see a slope full of snow and my team mates lying on the snow and grinning at me.The ORDEAL WAS OVER. As I was slowly making my way up I could see the kund -every inch frozen. What a sight! We were now at a height of 16000 feet. The sky was absolutely clear and it was a sunny day. On reaching the Roopkund I kept my sack down and was felling ecstatic for having made it. A dream fulfilled. Though the trek was difficult but I did not find it dangerous or risky at any stage, as I have read in many accounts. Any person who is fit can make it. In fact on our way up, we found a team of husband, wife and their two sons (Mukherjees) who were returning from Roopkund and going to Bedini. The husband was well over 50 and the wife was 47 (She very proudly declared her age during her tete-e-tete with Ganeshda). By and by every member reached the kund.

On reaching the kund, I did not waste a minute and immediately started the photo session. Amit and Sudip went to the farthest corner of the kund and were looking at something and appeared to be very excited. I shouted and asked them whether they could see any skeletons. ‘Lots and lots of them’ came the reply. I did not believe them and thought they were just joking. However, when Hemu (the ever-serious one) informed that I should come down immediately, I descended to have a look myself. When I reached the spot, I could not believe my eyes. There was a pile of human bones, mainly bones of the hands and legs. Few jaws with teeth intact and few skulls were also lying. At the other end of the kund, there were five/six skulls of children of 4-5 years. Few pairs of shoes (sandal type) were also kept at the bottom of a big boulder. Four-five skulls were also placed on a boulder on the edge of the kund.(see pics at the top).

Non-veg tea from the snow of roopkund

While we were taking our photographs, the porters were making offerings at a small stone temple which is customary for every person on reaching the kund. We also joined them in the quick and brief puja. After the pooja, we had a non-vegetarian tea prepared from snow of Roopkund.(see left)

By now (must have been 12 P.M.), small clouds were gathering in the sky and the guide told us to start preparation for our descent. The prospect of another four five hours of trek was not a good one but the fact that after Jyunargali kal, we would be going down was a solace to all of us. However, any trekker knows that in the mountains, with 10-12 kgs of load at your back, descending is as tough as climbing.

As I have mentioned earlier that normally people go to Roopkund from Lohajung via alibugyal/Wan Village, and then come back via the same route. However, we were not coming back from Roopkund. We therefore, climbed up to Jyunargali Col (16300 feet). The climb again was not risky but difficult, primarily because of depleted oxygen at this height. On reaching the top (Jyunargali Col) the feeling of elation again possessed us. Nanda Ghunti (6300 ft.) and Trishul (7120 ft.) were so close and appeared so gigantic that we kept looking at it thunderstruck at the beauty of the scene. Perhaps only after reaching such places, can one understand as to why Himalayas have been considered as the abode of gods. I tried my best to capture the beauty in my camera and took a few snaps. All other members also went on a shooting spree and spent around 30 mnts there. The diagram of the trek route from Jyungargali Col (16800 feet) where we were standing now, to Sheelasamudra can be roughly described as the figure of ‘J’. The lower end of the ‘J’ is Sheelasamudra and the higher end is the Roopkund. Sheelasamudra is at a height of 12000 ft. Hence the descent is of 4000 feet at a very high gradient.

udi

from left to right(Sudip, kaju, shubhada, lakhpat and Amit)

samit taking rest

The descent which was more tortuous than the climb so far

After our photo session, we started the descent to Sheelasamudra.(see left) The first kilometer was entirely through snow. We made it very easily, although there were moments when I would not hesitate to admit that I felt a little scared. One slip could take you down by at least 100 feet. On the whole it was thrilling and enjoyable. It was extremely cold at this height and more so because the sun was now behind the mountains. At one place, we found an entire stream frozen.(see photo at the bottom). I took some photographs for others to believe me. I could also see glaciers on all sides. While coming down, we also heard the booming sound of glacial ice cracking in the afternoon sun which was little horrifying.

The descent was turning out to be a very treacherous. After the snow zone, it was all big boulders and the gradient was 50-60°. While going down, the entire body weight and that of the sack is on your knee. It may sound strange that even during descent, we were all stopping after every ten steps just as we had done during our climb. This descent continued for the next three hours (3 hours I repeat). On reaching a level ground, I found every body sitting and resting at a place and thought that the destination was reached. However, the guide informed that we have to go down further. Few of the porters by now had already reached Sheelasamudra. One of the porter before leaving, showed us a red spot, some 3 K.M. further down, which he said is our tent. Although the tents were visible (only a dot) but it took us another 1.5 hour to reach that dot. Beauty of Sheelasamudra is again very difficult to describe. The proportions of the mountains can only be realized with naked eyes. All three of our tents were pitched near a big boulder which was at least two-strorey high. The place was surrounded on three sides by snow peaks. On one side is Trishul. We were at the bottom of the Trishul Peak. To see the peak of Trishul you had to look directly up. I can describe this by saying that if one could toss a coin from the Trishul Peak, it would fall within 50 feet of our tents. Within 30 feet of our tent was a big glacier (Tomorrow we would follow this glacier to Bhujani).

Immediately on reaching we were served tea. For refreshment “Jhal Muri” (rice flakes mixed with onion, chilly spices etc.) was prepared as it takes very little time. Suddenly out of nowhere, it started snowing. The snow was like theromocol globules falling all around. Preparation for dinner started early because the moment sun was behind the mountains it was becoming unbearably cold. Dinner of khichri and boild eggs was finished by 6 pm and by 6.30 we were inside our sleeping bags.

That night it was decided by Ganeshda, Samit & Dabu and I that four of us would not go to Ronti Saddle and would rather trek down to Bhujani jungle. Although I was physically fit, I was a little apprehensive of the altitude sickness and the extreme cold. Going to Ronti meant staying at Dodang Pass for two days in the extreme sub-zero temperature and thin air. Debu and Samit had displaying signs of altitude sickness and the choice of staying in lesser altitute at Bhojani jungles instead of Dodang pass was in sub-zero was in any case preferable to me. Therefore, the four of us decided to trek down to Bhujani and wait for the group at Bhujani jungles.

Despite coming down to 12000 feet, we couldn’t sleep for even half an hour the entire night due to severe cold. May be because of proximity to glacier and the peaks, the place was very cold. All our water bottles froze that night. When we opened our eyes next day, we found a thin layer of ice on the sheets inside(not outside which any way was full of ice) the tents as the exhaled air had condensed due to sub-zero temperatures.

12/10/2003: Shilasamudra (12000 ft). Destination Bhujani (1000 feet Distance 10 K.M.

The morning started with bed tea at 7 A.M. The group of six (Bhaskar (not very willing to go up). Shaubhada, Kaju, Amit, Hemu & Sudip (God knows from where they find such strength and courage), finally left us for Dodang pass at around 9 A.M., we however, waited upto 10.A.M. for the sun to rise. Since Lakhpat Singh was going with the group to Dodang Pass, Alam Singh and Raghbir Singh were deputed to accompany us to Bhujani. Only Alam knew the route. Raghbir was coming here for the first time.

Till now we hadn’t had any opportunity to closely interact with Alam Singh. Lakhpat Singh had told us that he is a troublemaker and since expert porters are not easy to find, he had no choice but to hire him. A little, that I had seen of him till now, gave me an impression that he treated Lakhpat Singh with scant respect unlike the other porters. He also appeared to be a little fun-loving, non-serious, those joker-types, who take nothing seriously. However, the next few days with him revealed a wonderful personality in him with all the aforesaid traits present in full measure. More about that later.

The entire route leading to Dodang Pass could be seen from our tent. In fact, we could see with our naked eye, the exact place (near a big boulder) where today our team would pitch the tent. Of course that spot was some 12 km from our tent and another 500 meters higher. Therefore, when we started our trek down, we kept on trying to locate our group going up on the mountain slopes but could not see them after about an hour.

Although we were a little sad for not going to Dodang, but at the same time we were also feeling relieved that we were going down. We knew that losing height meant disappearance of altitude sickness, return of appetite, and most importantly, relief from sub-zero conditions. After 1 hour of trek, we reached a place where there was no discernible track to follow. Alam Singh looked here and there and decided to follow a particular path. “UUU…nadi ke pass jana hai (ऊ..... नदी के पास जाना है )” (reminded us of amir Khan’s Coca Cola Add which was very popular those days) – he informed us- and we followed him. The river he showed us was coming out of a big snout in the gigantic Nandakini glacier (Our team today had gone up this glacier.). We managed to come down on our own by clinging on to grass roots and shrubs. However, at one place the gradient must have been 75-80 and all of us were little scared. By then, Alam had already gone way ahead. As he looked up, he found us struggling and immediately kept his sack down and came up all the way up to help us one by one to go down. In the mountains, only a large- hearted person can climb again on the same track, particularly when the only reason is to help your co-trekkers.A true leader had emerged the moment he got the opportunity.

As we went down, we gradually came very near to the glacier. The sight of it was really scary. It was an entire valley of ice sheet with shades of green and black. After taking few snaps of the glacier, with the Trishul at the back, I realized that perhps the proportions of the size of the mountains & the glacier will be better understood by a viewer if a human figure could be included. Alam Singh at that time was sitting on a hanging rock and was humming (something he kept doing even while trekking on steep slopes, as if he was on a morning walk). As I looked through the viewfinder, I found the picture very appealing and took another snap. Alam immediately asked me to send him a copy to him. After resting a while, we walked for another 20 minutes. It was a continuous slope and was taxing on the knees and calf muscles. We also spotted our team on the slopes of the mountain which was few kms away. Few dots were going up. We shouted an waved at them. The dots waved back.

After about 3 hours we reached the river and decided to take a break as Bhujani was only 2kms away. Alam asked us whether we would have some ‘maggi’. We could not say no (We started today without a breakfast). After a few minutes two persons (one around 50 years and another, a boy of 15-16) suddenly appeared from across the glaciers. Alam and Raghubir greeted them on their arrival in their own garhwali style. They informed that they were employees of Forest Department and had gone into the upper areas to look for Jari Butis. They were in the wild for the last four days. They also showed us few rare Jari Butis, they had collected. What surprised me was their luggage. They were carrying only one thin blanket each, and a small bag. This prompted me to ask them, as to how and where do they sleep at night in such harsh conditions. They informed, to our astonishment that they find some cave or rockshelter, if possible light a fire and that’s all. Another fact also surprised me. The man of 50 had never gone out of Uttaranchal in his life and had never seen a plane. (see photos).

We shared maggis and few chapattis with those two persons and after sometime, they left. Alam, by now was behaving as a born leader and was treating Raghbir as a mere porter. He told Raghbir that he should start for bhujani and on reaching there should collect enought fire wood from the jungle to last us the three nights we would be spending there. Raghbir obeyed the orders without a murmur and left immediately for bhujani. Before starting our trek again, Ganeshda drew our attention to the fact that day-after-tomorrow when our tem will return from Ronti they will have to cross this river which had enough current to pose serious problems. (The team, did finally cross the river, but with the ropes tied to their waist, as by the time they come to the river at 12 noon, the water level had risen, making it impossible to cross the river without ropes. All six told us later that perhaps it was the most exciting incident of the trek, somewhat like the experience of river crossing encountered during the Sar Pass Trek).

The descent upto the river bed, was through a ‘no tree zone’. We crossed one huge landslide. However, as we started the trek after lunch, we were into the dense jungles of Bhuj trees. Compared to the trek so far, the trek now was much better because, now at least the path was discernible. Although the path was very-very narrow, barely 1 feet wide at some places, we felt relieved, for we were now at least trekking on a path and were not required to invent one. The trek was by and large without a gradient with occasional ups and down. The entire route was on the edge of a deep gorge, through which the Nandakini river was flowing. Every few steps we would witness some waterfall coming down from the mountain and falling into the Nandakini. We could not see the river (being very deep inside the gorge), bit its roar was our companion for the next 5 days. All around us were big Bhuj trees with the bhuj barks hanging in plenty. It was the first time in my life I was seeing a bhuj tree which are only found in very high altitudes.

Ganeshda was little ahead of me. Alam was walking with me. Debu and Somit were a little behind. Suddenly, I saw Ganeshda negotiating a bend, by holding on to a big rock. He crossed the spot with some difficulty. When I reached the spot, I found that the path had taken a sharp turn. There was a space of only 1 inch - just enough to put your one foot (nay the toe). Below that spot was a seventy-eighty feet fall. The only way to cross, was to cling to a big rock, put your toe (with your back to valley with 80 feet fall) and quickly jump to the other side of the bend. It was very scary. Alam immediately sensed our fear and told us to given him all our rucksacks so that we could pass that spot without difficulty. I, however gave him the camera pouch tied to my waist so that I could cross the bend easily. All three of us crossed the spot without any untoward happening. After having put all three of us safely on the other side, Alam himself now had to cross the spot. We waited to see how he does it.

Alam crossed the spot with such elan(whistling all the time) that it would put even a mountain goat to shame. He put just his toe on that 'one inch space' nonchalantly and jumped to the safe corner-all the while whistling some tune, which haunted us for the next four days. Mind you, he was carrying Samit’s rucksack, two trays of eggs tied to his head(yes I know you are not believing me), few other food items, besides my camera bag tied to his waist. He was not wearing the hunter shoes that anybody will tell you is a must, for a trekker. Throughout the trek he wore plastic shoes (Rs.30/- per pair) with no socks, he had no sleeping bag. With these outfits he had already conquered Roopkund, Jyunargali and Sheelasamudra.

We reached Bhujani (The place is full of Bhuj trees(भोज पत्र ) and hence the name) within 1.5 hours and on way we found Raghbir cutting branches of bhuj trees. He greeted us and told us that the tea is ready. On reaching the spot, Ganeshda in his biggo (intellectual) style, chose the spot for pitching the tent and gave necessary directions to Alam. On two sides were the gigantic mountains with thick green cover. On the third side was the valley with layers of mountains in between. On the fourth side, from where we had descended, was the bhujani jungles and looming over the jungles was the majestic ‘Trishul’. While parting with our group today we had bought only a single four-man tent with us. Therefore, while we were pitching our tent on reaching bhujani, we for the first time seriously started thinking as to how six of us are going to sleep in the four-man tent and that too for the three nights we were going to spend in that jungle.

Indian Rope Trick

Alam must have sensed our uneasiness and once again bailed us out of the difficult situation. What happened next was an unbelievable exhibition of energy, skill and intelligence. Although it must have have been only 30 minutes since we had arrived, dog tired and hardly any energy left but Alam did not appear one bit so. He asked for the khukri from Ganeshda (Ganeshda had brought a khukri, about a feet long, specially designed for the trekking purpose). He went to a place near our tent and after inspecting the sight started cutting the bamboo like shrubs and cleared the ground within minutes. He announced that he is going to make his tent here. We asked in astonishment- BUT HOW? He did not answer but continued to whistle and smile. He the climbed a nearby bhuj tree and brought down two dead branches with a ‘V’ at their end. Sharpened the end opposite to ‘V’ and pinioned each of the branches into the ground with the ‘V’ on top at distance of 6 feet. We were all watching silently and awe struck. Thereafter, he cut another 6 feet branch and placed it on the grooves of each ‘V’ horizontally. This horizontal branch had to be fastened to the vertical branches which were pinioned earlier. We offered him some ropes we were carrying but he did not even care to look at us. He then pulled out bunches of grass from the ground and after twisting it with both his palms made ropes 2 feet long to tie the branches. (This was the original 'Indian Rope trick) . The result was the skeleton of an ‘A’ shape tent. He borrowed the rain sheets from us and draped the 'A' tying the ends of the sheets with few big stones. He had conjured up a two-man tent within half-an-hour from non-existing materials which was nothing but sheer magic. He and Raghvir would sleep in this tent for the next three nights. I wish I could have captured the action on a handicam. It would have been the best documentary which would any day beat those survival programmes they show on National Geographic/ discovery channel.

No sooner did he complete the tent he started the preparation for the dinner, as if he had done nothing big in the last half hour. We requested him to prepare nutrela and plain rice. As usual, he smilingly agreed and went for the work. It was now almost 5 p.m. and the sun was making its way behind the hills. We put on our woolens and caps and went near the fire and sat there till the dinner was ready. Since we had lost height, our appetite had returned and we were full of energy again. We finished our dinner sitting besides the fire and continued to gossip. Soon it was dark. The moon was still behind the mountains. The roar of Nandakini had also gone down a little due to reduced flow of water at night. The night sky was full of stars. There was hardly any space in the sky without stars, something we never will witness in the big cities due to the polluted skies. It was a wonderful experience again and remain with me as long i live.

We went inside the tent at around 9 p.m. As everybody was tired, we fell asleep very quickly. The last thing I remember, before losing consciousness, was the Garhwali songs, Raghbir and Alam were singing inside their plastic tent.

13/10/2003: Bhujani. No destination. We got up on being served bed tea at 7 a.m. However, we did not get out till 10.30 inspite of many requests by Gandeshda who went out at 8.A.M. By 10.30,the sun rays were falling on the tent {We behaved like cold blooded animals}. As I opened the chain of the exit flap a unusually clear sky greeted us. The sun was bright at this hour and we sat in the sun and sipped another cup of tea. The entire day passed lazying around . All four of us had all kinds of lively discussion sitting in the sun. The topics ranged from Robindro Sangeet music to preparation of Sukto ( the famous Bengali vegetarian delicacy). At around 12 noon, Ganeshda and I accompanied Raghbir to the jungle to see how he cuts Bhuj Patra from the trees. We collected lots of Bhuj Patra. Alam and Raghvir had also collected enough wood from the forest to last us three-four days.

In the evening Alam lit a fire at 6.30 p.m. which continued upto 10 in the night. We continued to sit next to the fire, singing and dancing. We went inside our tent at 10.00 p.m. Tomorrow we would reunite with our group.

14/10/2003: Bhujani no destination. Just like yesterday, we got out of our tent at 10.30 sharp. Finished breakfast and decided to go little ahead, on the way we would follow tomorrow. We went up to a big rock and sat down. At 2 P.M. when we were coming down we could see that our group had returned and relaxing in the sun. They had also pitched their tents. We felt overjoyed to see them fit and fine. They told us about their adventures particularly the river crossing. (which I have already discussed earlier). We had our dinner to day at 7.30 p.m. Lakhpat Singh sang his favorite song (Aaj to kailah me Baaj rahe damroo- naach rahe bhole baba- payal baje ghoongroo….) We went inside the tent by 8 p.m. as tomorrow we would start early to reach Sitel village (24 K.M.) well in time. Before sleeping, on debu’s request we sang all kinds of songs. We also had a very good ,singing the distorted version of “Sedin Doojone Doole chilluu bone…” the famous Rabindro sangeet. (please do not ask for the distorted version).

15/10/2003: Bhujani. Destination Sutol village. Distance 24 K.M.

Our trek today was through a very dense jungle (jagobari jungle). We were advised by Lakhpat Singh to trek in a group minimize the chances of getting lost in the dense jungle. We started our trek and immediately after 30 minutes, we reached a glacier that we had to cross. As we were taking very cautious steps one by one, we found Alam walking past all of us as if he was walking in turf, whistling of course all thetime and with a teasing smile on his face. Immediately after the glacier, we entered into a really dense forest of huge trees with very thick undergrowth. We were all walking in a line. Lakhpat Singh was in the front, leading all of us. I was in the middle.

After about 2 hours of walking, suddenly I heard the calls of a bird coming from our left from the undergrowth of the mountain slopes. It appeared an alarm call, something like “tit. Tit Tit….tit..” at very quick intervals. As I looked towards left, one blackbird (partridge like) flew out of the scrubby undergrown, cris-crossed its way through the dense tree branches and went flying across the valley. I could only get a fleeting glimpse of it. It was a strong and swift flier. I could see the upper part of the bird, it was all black ( or so it appeared to me). It had a short tail. I was really excited to see such a bird and was shouting, trying to draw everybody’s attention. It was the porters who seeing me so agitated informed that they were monal and I was very lucky to have sighted it.After almost two hours of trek up and down we reached an open space and rested there for a while. Thereafter, we descended upto 600-700 feet into the jungle and reached a stream. Porters had reached this spot an hour earlier and were preparing lunch. Only Khichri today.

We started another phase of steep climb after lunch. Lakhpat told us that this the last real climb of the trek. We again passed through dense jungles. On the way up, we spotted a flock of Minivets on top of a big tree. Sun rays were falling on the birds and its brilliant scarlet plumage was shining which was a sight to watch . For the first time I saw these birds from such close range.

Immediately after this, we once again sighted two monals flying out of the dense undergrowth, perhaps disturbed by our entry into their feeding grounds. Constant sighting of these rare birds made the trek very exciting despite the tiring climb today.
Finally at around 4 PM we reached sutol village and

We started at a 8 A.M. today and around 3P.M. we reached tatradhang. This village was a beauty straight out of a picture postcard. One sorely missed a handicam in such a situation. It was the time when Ramdana (A cereal with red flowers) was in full bloom. The slopes of the hills were entirely red. . The stone houses were very neatly built. You could easily pass the photograph of this village as a little hamlet of Switzerland. (see photo). One very interesting thing was the cultivation of Ganja in this village. All around there was Ganja shrubs. From this village, Sutol village was another 3 K.M. down. We found a stream of villagers coming from Sutol village with huge luggage on ponies. Lakhpat singh informed that it was seasonal migration and people were coming up for irriagation of land, which they own in Tatradhang. He also informed that we will not find many villagers in Sutol because of this reason.

After resting here for a while we started for Sutol and reached there in another hour. We were all very tired. Today we had walked 24 K.Ms. On reaching the village we stayed in a secondary school. Many children came to us and pestered us for ‘Mithai’. We distributed some biscuits to them but not before asking one question to each of them. The difficulty of the question depending on which class he/she was studying. It was fun.

We had a good night sleep after many many days. Tomorrow was going to be our last day of the trek.

16/10/2003: Destination today was Sitel village (5500 feet). Distance was 9k.m. This village is connected by road to the outside world. We started our trek today at 8 A.M. For the first 2 hours we climbed again for almost 800 feet. Thereafter, it was level and final 1k.m. was down. We reached Sutol forest bunglow at 1 p.m. Since Subhada had promised us all a treat of Chicken at Sutol and could not keep his promise he immediately despatched Alam and Lakpat Singh to procure 2 Kgs. Of meat from Ghat( a town nearby)

For lunch, sudip and co. had prepared mashed potato, Boiled eggs( a typical Bengali preparation) which we consumed to our hearts content. After lunch I took bath for the first time in 10 days ( I bribed a porter to bring me some hot water. Consumption of kerosene for hot water for bathing was strictly prohibited).

In the evening we all sat together and had a joked as to how each of us managed to get permission from their respective family for this trekking expedition. Everyone confessed that they managed the permission, by making a solemn declaration that this was the last trek. We also discussed our destination for the next year’s trek. Gochala was decided tentatively. (However, later it was finally Kalindi Pass).

17/10/2003. We started by hiring a jeep at 9 A.M. However, only after 10 minutes of ride, just outside the Sitel Village limits, the Car broke down. We decided that seven of us would walk down and wait at the next village. The remaining three viz Samit, Kaju and I were to remain with the Jeep. Alam went to the Sitel Village to hire another jeep which arrived after 1 hour. We loaded our entire luggage and started again. We found our group at the next village sipping tea at local tea stall. All of us reached Ghat at 11.30 A.M. The driver agreed to take us to Karnaprayag. We immediately started for Karnaprayag and reached there at around 1.30 P.M.

18/10/2003: Karnaprayag. Destination Haridwar by Bus. We started from karnapryag at 6.30 A.M. and reached Haridwar via Rudraprayag at 2.00 p.m. in Haridwar, we stayed at Bansal Guest House.

19/10/2003 Haridwar, Samit and I bid good bye to our team with a very heavy heart, with the promise to meet next year at Siliguri for conquering Gochala. We boarded the Delhi Bus at 8 A.M. and reached our home in Delhi at 3 P.M.

While concluding the report, I would like to add that like of all our earlier treks,this was the best both in terms of the beauty of the route but also the fact that there were no untoward incident despite being considered as a very tough trek. However, this tough trek would not have been possible, without the extraordinary effort made by the porters. They normally carried twice the weight we carried and despite the days trek with us, were ever ready to serve us in the evening. They did not have the sophisticated outfits we always carry to protect us from the sever cold and other difficult situations yet there efficiency was much much better than us. Therefore, while parting, most of us gave away our jackets or sleeping bags etc. to them. I know I will perhaps never meet those simple, god fearing porters ever but I will ever cherish the memories of their company particularly the three nights in the Latkobari jungle with Alam Singh and his antics till my last breath.