2013-trek to the Great Himalayan National Park(GHNP), Himachal Pradesh April 2013

Trek to Great Himalyan National Park (GHNP) in 2013

On way to Rola
negotiating a steep climb through
 a  might-break-any-moment ladder

Being a bird lover, Tirthan Valley, Himachal Pradesh is one of my favourite haunts and I visit this valley at least twice a year. Tirthan valley is a still one of those lesser known destinations which is pristine and pure, and any one who visits Tirthan would be captivated by its beauty.A gorgeous river full of trout, lofty mountains all around with birds of all kinds, the valley with apple orchards makes Trithan a Sangrila of the Himachal. 

By birding trips takes me to tirthan at least twice in a year yet I could not find time, in any of my previous visits, to trek inside the National Park.  My daughter, Ishani Mukherjee (Class-XI) was pestering me for a long time to go for this trek about which she had heard from so many of her friends. To stay in the tent in the wilderness was something she was very enthusiastic about and looking forward to. I was not very sure whether her stamina would match with her enthusiasm and therefore, thought of a simple one day trek from Gusaini to Rola and back. My wife and one of my close friend Gagandeep Chawla also joined. After, we had tentativley decided on the month of April to go to Tirthan, all I had to do was to call Shri Panki Sood of Sunsine Adventures Himalayan Adventures (mobile no.09418204666) and everything for arranged in two days. Shri Sood is an old friend and one the finest gentlemen I have ever met. His enthusiasm and love for the GHNP is only to be seen to be believed.

I chose the month of April, because by this time, Ishani's exam are over and also because the weather is  in GHNP. The quickest and safest way is to take the volvo from Himachal House in Delhi. The buses departs at 6 PM and one can get down at Aut at around 5 AM. From Aut it takes two hours to reach Nagini (Banjar) in the Tirthan Valley. Thus, by 7 AM you are in the Hotel. We normally stay at Hotel Trout Valley of Mr.Khem Bharti.

About GHNP

The GHNP is of about 750 sq. kms in area and the ecozone of about 250 sq. kms. Ecozone is the area where there is habitat, villages and people. Inside the national park, now there are restrictions on cattle grazing, herb-collecting and residence. The GHNP has 4 valleys – Tirthan, Sainj, Parvati and Jiwa. Tirthan Valley as of now has no dams and hydro projects across its river and so is conserved thanks to the efforts of the local people. After the restrictions placed on the national park entry, the village inhabitants were organized into groups by the NGO  there to earn living through tourism, handicrafts & other means.GHNP is also home to the beautiful Western Tragopan. 

The one day trek starts from  (Gusaini) गुशैणी.The first night halt is in Rola which is 8 km from Gusaini. The route is beauty epitomised. It is also recommended for anyone who has no experience. There are a number of  water falls on this route, each more beautiful than the previous. After the first four Kilometers, the route passes through dense himalayan forest, where a number of wooden bridges have to be crossed. The thrill of the trek is in the last three kilometers when in some places you have to climb wooden ladders to move forward (please see the first photograph above).

On our way up we sighted a number of birds including red-headed bullfinch, yellow bellied fantail, red-billed blue magpie, whiskered Yuhina and many other species. 

Yellow bellied fantail

Ishani always wanted to experience the joy of trekking in the himalyan region and the trek to Rola was the perfect initiation for her. I am sure she will cherish the memories of this trek forever in her life. 

a hidden waterfall in Teerthan Valley
(please tilt your head 90 degree to the  right)

On our way to Rola
Standing- Anjana, Gagan, Ankit Sood, I and Panki
sitting-Ishani 

This beautiful elderly lady

 obliged readily

 to be photographed

After few false starts ishani
perfected the 'slow shutter speed' technique.

After trekking for an hour, the weather was turning bad and around 12 it had started drizzling. Normally I carry a rain sheet in my camera bag to protect costly equipment. I took out the rainsheet and draped it immediately. There was no other rainsheet with us and therefore, Anjana or Gagandeep were slowly getting drenched.  Ishani was wearing a waterproof jacket.  Mr. Panki used this opportunity in pulling my leg and reminding all of us of the popular saying in the hills "ट्रेक में यारी दोस्ती पक्की मगर सामान अपना अपना "

my friend-Gagandeep Chawla

himalayan bulbul

white capped red start

whiskered Yuhina

Anjana

ishani

stopping frequently to enjoy the beauty

ishani-enjoying every moment

Gagandeep-too engrossed

Add caption

Man's oldest friend- This specimen 
trekked with us 
all the way and ...
also returned with us next day

very cosy three-men tents

Rappling sessions arranged by Panki Sood

rappling-ishani did it well- 
I was very nervous but hid it well.

preparation for the dinner

at Rola

Gagan Praji-
 although he had inflamed tonsilits and hence fever yet he trekked with ease.

My darling daughter

Bonfire at 9 pm under the starry night
and the river flowing by-
You cannot beat this experience.

Panki the great

our tents at Rola

Panki (In the sleeping bag) slept the entire night 
in this two side open shed-
Photo was taken by Anjana at 0600 hours

early morning

She is the only human inside the park.Living alone in this wilderness was incomprehensible to us. Her husband died last year at the age 84 (2012).We talked to her and inquired as to how she lives alone. She informed that her grandchildren comes and stays with her often. While talking to Panki who is like a son to them, she had tears in her eyes. Panki also informed us that her husband had encyclopedic knowledge about the park and even the forest officials used to consult him often on related matters.

this is the hut of the only human resident inside the park-The husband died  in the year 2012 . Now his wife (this lady) only  continues to stay in this hut.

at the gate of  the GHNP